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A neighbourhood bistro experience at Le Pantruche
Discover authentic French cuisine at one of the many underrated bistros in Pigalle, the chic and picturesque district of Paris.
29 October 2023 By Stella Li
Considering the lively food scene in Paris, it would be unexpected that Le Pantruche, tucked away in the quieter streets of Southern Pigalle, turns out a neighbourhood favourite. Named after an old-time slang for Paris, the bistro retains historic art déco interiors from the 1930s, where silver retro lamps hang above wooden banquettes with mirrors adorning white-painted walls. Inside the kitchen, Chef Franck Baranger and his small team of chefs deliver simple yet refined seasonal dishes for an elevated culinary journey.
Le Pantruche offers two set menus featuring a small selection of dishes: a menu midi with one main course and one appetiser or dessert (€23), and a menu complet with all three courses for a higher price (€39). Commencing the warm Parisian summer, the chefs have curated a formule dejeuner (lunch set menu) that presents a refreshing palate to showcase their impeccable gourmet techniques.
Our menu begins with a delectable pork ravioli, stuffed with tantalising shredded pork while laying on Jerusalem artichoke, elderberry flower and chervil foam. Upon biting down the ravioli, its succulent flavours are met with the enlivening harmony of blended herbs and green beans, balancing the richness of the pork to form a sensational lightweight aftertaste. The pork is wrapped in a sheet of pan-fried ravioli pasta, slightly crispy on the outside and pillow soft on the inside, completing the course with an exquisitely luscious opening.
The main course presents one of Le Pantruche’s specialities, sous vide veal paired with dried assorted mushrooms, seasonal vegetables and dijon mustard. The veal is vacuum-sealed and gently cooked in a water bath, resulting in its delicate pink colour and velvety texture. Tender and mild in flavour, it is the dijon mustard that adds a delightful zesty kick to the veal, creating delectable complexity to the palate. The umami taste of mushrooms and the fresh crunch of raw greens tie the dish together by delivering a lingering earthy sensation, further enhancing the flavours with a delightful depth.
After the splendid entrée, the signature soufflé and caramel beurre salé takes the stage, baked to perfection with a crusty surface and dramatic rise above the rim, powdered sugar sprinkled atop. Digging in with a spoon reveals its loose and airy centre, sweet and flavourful from the fantastic combination of whipped egg whites, yolks and butter. Pour the thickly condensed salted caramel butter sauce on top for an extra burst of creamy richness that melts and lingers in the mouth, complementing the cloud-like content of the soufflé - an outstanding conclusion to the satisfying lunch experience.
With the moderate pricing and impeccable taste of each dish, it is no wonder that Le Pantruche makes for a hidden gem waiting to be discovered. Amazingly enough, the bistro offers English menus with servers kindly willing to accommodate patrons in English, so tourists are welcome as well. On your next trip to Paris, give Le Pantruche a try for a traditional, comforting dining experience in the north of France.